Beauty Supply Ownership

Why are so many beauty supply stores Asian-owned and stationed in black communities?

By: Janiya Ansah

How many beauty supply stores are Asian-owned anyway? 

As of 2024, debates within the black community have risen as people have expressed their experiences with shopping in beauty supply stores that are owned by people of Asian descent. While these stores have often been stationed in black communities for generations, black people commonly connect on their experiences of feeling uncomfortable within the space because although the stores are catered to them, they’re also viewed through a magnifying glass as a method to prevent theft in stores. This attempt to prevent theft has people wondering why owners continue to open up these stores and cater to a community they feel is untrustworthy. An article by MPR News, states that “Korean-Americans own more than 70 percent of 10,000 beauty supply stores nationwide.” Within this statistic, the primary spenders are black women. 

Where are beauty supply stores located? 

While there are a variety of hair stores that cater to different communities, globally spread out stores such as Sally Beauty. Are not typically where black women shop because the products they desire to purchase are not there. 

Independently Asian-owned stores know how to appeal to black women and men which has kept business stagnant. 

This process of steady business began in the 1960s when Koreans immigrated to the United States and would go door-to-door to sell products. They eventually saw business opportunities in this and began opening stores in these communities for convenience. African Americans would continue to buy from these stores and utilize products in their businesses, such as barbershops and salons. Since Asians immigrated to areas where business was prevalent, that is where they’ve stayed for generations. Undeniably, wherever the population is primarily African American, there is a beauty supply store that is Asian-owned nearby. 

Why do shop owners suspect theft? 

Recurring thefts within these stores have caused a ripple effect of actions toward people of color. The owners feel that it is necessary to follow or keep a close eye on customers who look similar to past suspects. One of the two methods used is snapping pictures of the people who have stolen and displaying those photos in front of the store to not only publicly shame them but to serve as a warning not to return, and a warning to new customers that their fate will be the same if they choose to steal. In 2011, there was a crime trend of people targeting hair stores for human extensions and wigs and then reselling them. “In an incident in Chicago, for example, a team of men made off with $70k to $90k worth of hair from a beauty supply store and didn’t bother touching the cash register at all,” says Brad Tuttle, a reporter at TIME magazine. Although this is a significant loss to independently owned businesses, As of 2024, the industry and hair store dynasty has made over $93 billion and continues to grow. 

Can black women reclaim hair stores? 

In recent years, the beauty industry has had an influx of black women trying to reclaim their roots, such as Nubian Beauty Supply, The Girl Cave LA, and Angie’s Beauty Supply. 

However, it’s been harder for them to do so since the dynasty has already started a foundation that secluded them and made them primary consumers instead of possible owners.

 “The market is saturated and the stores who got in first carry the premium brands,” Sam Hwang, an independent business owner told MPR news. The set foundation has made it harder for anyone to infiltrate the industry, especially black women because not only have they been made to be consumers of the products, but they’ve also been stereotyped and profiled in these spaces which has also contributed to the lack of breakthrough. That doesn’t mean they haven’t tried and been somewhat successful. While Korean Americans own ~70 percent of beauty supply stores, black women own less than 5 percent [1], and that other 25 percent is distributed to other demographics. Black women have expressed that they yearn to be comfortable in these spaces and want to build a community within them that they haven’t felt in other locations. Black women have begun reclaiming hair stores but years of business seclusion are to blame for the vast percentage differences, and it’ll take time before that gap is compromised. 

What is the future for these stores? 

Hair products will continue to be in demand, especially in areas where they’ve been strategically placed, and as black women start to break through in ownership over these stores. Asian owners may try to be more sensitive to their consumers in an attempt to keep a steady business. The competitive nature between black and Asian owners has been a constant for decades in the hair industry. Still, the possibility of collaboration isn’t far-fetched for the opportunity of community.